My last post took note of a concert I attended in April by the Czech bluegrass band The Malina Brothers, with guest appearances by Charlie McCoy,
the Nashville-based harmonica virtuoso and member of the Country Music
Hall of Fame, and the Czech singer Kat’a Garcia. The concert was sold
out, and got a prolonged standing ovation from the crowd. And it was
being filmed for a live show DVD.
That concert took place in the Sono Center, a major venue in Brno, CZ, for contemporary music -- the audience numbered 700 or 800.
Less than a month later, the Malina Brothers, who are old friends of mine, visited Italy -- where they gave a house concert at the home of a friend.
I managed to live stream it from my phone, on Facebook -- and here it is. It was my first live streaming, so the visual quality is not the best (and it's vertical -- the program didn't let me rotate the phone)... but still. It's a testament to their talent that their same repertoire works in a big theatrical venue like the Sono Center -- and also in the intimate setting of a private living room.
In Brno, Czech Republic, the Imaginary Wild West leaps off a wall….
advertising “the best steaks” in the city at an eatery called “U Starýho Bill” (At Old Bill’s) that calls itself “a real ‘TEXAS’ restaurant.”
The wall here was a few steps away from the Sono Center, a major Brno
venue for contemporary music — where I was headed to attend a concert
by the Czech bluegrass band The Malina Brothers, with guest appearances by Charlie McCoy,
the Nashville-based harmonica virtuoso and member of the Country Music
Hall of Fame, and the Czech singer Kat’a Garcia. The concert was sold
out, and got a prolonged standing ovation from the crowd. And it was
being filmed for a live show DVD.
The Malinas are old friends of mine. Banjo player and
multi-instrumentalist Lubos Malina was one of the founding members of
the great Czechgrass group Druha Trava, and I met him (amazingly) nearly
15 years ago, at one of the many summer bluegrass/country festivals in
CZ, when I first started exploring the Imaginary Wild West in Europe.
Guitarist Pavel Malina used to play with DT, and fiddler Pepa Malina
still sometimes plays with them. The Malina Brothers band came together
informally at first, but over the past five years or so has developed a
remarkable following in CZ — as the concert in Brno demonstrated.
The three brothers visited in Italy six years ago and gave a house
concert at the home of a friend. It was the first of a series of house
concerts anchored by Lubos.
The brothers played this arrangement of Smetana at the house concert in
2013 — and at the concert in Brno.
On the night after the Brno concert, Pepa Malina performed with Druha
Trava at the start of a a week-long tour with Charlie McCoy — a
sold-out, standing-ovation gig in the town of Ceska Trebova.
Here’s a video of the run-through before the Ceska Trebova concert:
Charlie McCoy has had a standout career in the USA and was inducted into the Country Music Hall of Fame in 2009.
I’ve written about him in the past, on my Sauerkraut Cowboys blog,
because he is quite wellknown in the country music scene outside the
USA. He tours regularly in Europe and elsewhere (i.e. Japan), and he
makes a point to play with European bands and also records with them; he
has released albums in France, Denmark, Germany, and the Czech Republic. Later this summer he will be touring in Sweden in England.
Onstage at the concert in Ceska Trebova, he recalled how he met up
with Druha Trava — it was at the festival in Strakonice, CZ, where he
was performing in 2001. DT was also on the bill and asked if he would
join them for a few songs — since then he has toured with them half a
dozen or more times in CZ, released a live album with DT and also
released a CD with The Malina Brothers.
Here’s a promo video about the Malina Brothers album (partly in Czech, partly in English):
I met Charlie back in 2005 during one of his tours with Druha Trava — the concert I saw was at a “Days of Texas” festival in the little town of Roznov pod Radnostem, in eastern CZ.
The festival, I wrote in an article
highlighted
the fact that from the mid-19th century until World War I, thousands of
people emigrated from Roznov and other towns and villages in the region
to Texas. Today, Texas has the largest ethnic Czech community of any
state in the United States.
There were
demonstrations of 19th-century farming customs used by the emigrants and
performances by American-style Czech country-western groups, as well as
local folk groups performing Wallachian songs and dances. An exhibition
of quilting featured a big patchwork quilt reading “Texas,” hung
prominently from the upper floor of the old Roznov Town Hall.
Like the Malina Brothers concert in Brno, the Druha Trava/Charlie
McCoy concert in Ceska Trebova drew a standing ovation from an energized
crowd — and lots of autograph-seekers and CD-buyers afterward.
I can't believe it's been nearly a year since I updated this blog... time seems to fly faster and faster and, well, I'm lazy...and then again it's easier just to post links on the Facebook page... But I'll try to do some catching up in the next few days....
I've visited a number of wild west theme parks in Europe over the years -- they are key elements in the Imaginary Wild West. Real Imaginary spaces that have grown out of dreams, passions, stereotypes, and yearnings -- but also help create them.
This was my first visit to Twin Pigs -- but the latest of several to Boskovice.
The Boskovice park was founded in 1994 as a private initiative by a local man, Luboš "Jerry" Procházka, who developed the park in a natural setting in and around a disused sandstone quarry. The first time I visited -- in, I believe, 1997 -- it was out of season and the park was closed; I could only look at it over a fence. But I was struck by the view of the saloon and other movie-set buildings.
My first view of Wild West City, in 1997 - out of season
At that time, I was researching my book "Virtually Jewish" -- about the relationship of non-Jewish people to Jewish culture in Europe. I wrote this in an essay published at the time in The New Leader magazine (and also in my 2008 book "Letters from Europe (and Elsewhere)"):
Some people compare Europe's current interest in Jewish culture with the United States' interest in Native Americans. To be sure, I have seen Indian dolls wearing beaded costumes for sale in the Denver train station that reminded me of the "Jewish" puppets and figures I have photographed in Prague, Krakow, and Venice.
I was not surprised, therefore, by two posters I found on display in the Boskovice tourist office. One is for a jazz festival whose proceeds are to go toward renovation of the Jewish quarter. The other advertises a rodeo at a place called "Wild West City: Boskovice's Western Town." It features photographs of people dressed up like American Indians riding horses, with corrals, rickety wooden structures and even tepees in the background. A handbill shows a seductive Indian maiden looking over her shoulder.
I found Wild West City on my map, the edge of Boskovice, and stopped there on my way out of town. It is a theme park set up in an old quarry that resembles a stage set from a John Ford movie, replete with a flimsy wooden saloon and general store. A sign at the entrance reads, "Indian Territory." Another notes the kilometers to various spots in the American West -- most of them spelled incorrectly. It's off-season The place is deserted. The only sound is that of hoofbeats, as a costumed employee rides a horse round and round the repro corral.
Boskovice's Wild West main street
On subsequent visits over the years, I spoke with Jerry -- who is still the owner and managing director -- and observed the town "in action." It includes the usual wild west tropes -- a "main street," saloon, "boot hill", bank, "Indian Village" etc.
In the Boskovice "Indian Village"
But I've always found it much more low key and laid back than some of the others I have visited -- there's a dusty slightly rundown feel -- though I did notice on my visit this July that some of the buildings had been repainted since my last visit. There also seemed to be more activity elements aimed at kids.
The imagery is based on US western movies and Karl May books, but it also is influenced by Czech tramping tropes. The Czech movie Lemonade Joe, a 1964 spoof of the singing cowboy genre, also plays a role -- in particular with the big "advertising" mural for "Kola Loka" -- the sarsparilla type drink enjoyed by the movie's hero.
Performance at Boskovice Wild West city in 2004
The park includes an outdoor theatre
where live performances take place -- I didn't see one this summer (it
apparently was based on the shootout at the OK Corral) but some years
back I took in a performance based on Karl May's Winnetou characters.
Twin Pigs, located in southern Poland near Zory, off a main highway, is a somewhat different story, It employs the same general skeleton, but has quite a different feel: a purpose-built construct born out of a commercial business plan rather than from personal passion.
Opened in 2012, it is described as an amusement park, and it is much more "top down," planned out, and hard-edged than Boskovice, with its grassroots origin and -- despite recent improvements -- still rather amateur feel.
There is a regular lay-out along the Main Street, and also a ferris wheel, roller coaster, and other rides, restaurants, a 5D theater, and children's activity trails. Lots of red-white-and-blue bunting and American flags (and a few Confederate ones, too).
I've been visiting Willie Jones, the American-born singer whose been based in Germany for more than 30 years and is one of the standouts on the European country scene. He has a new compilation CD coming out this fall, and I wrote the liner notes.
Willie is one of the first people I met in Europe's Imaginary Wild West -- back in 2003, when he was the strolling singer at the Pullman City wild west theme park (I was writing an article for the New York Times on European wild west theme parks). We went on a memorable road trip to a country roadhouse in southern Bohemia ... the first time I heard "The Okie From Muskogee" sung in Czech.... I last saw his about a year and a half ago, at the "mini Dobrofest" festival in Trnava, Slovakia (which I wrote about HERE).
Last night I went with Willie to a club gig in a village in Bavaria, near Regensburg: he played bass backup for a German duo called Bud 'n' Cellar, and also sang....country-infused rock and pop.
The club was packed -- and the fans demanded -- DEMANDED -- DEMANDED -- that they play "Country Roads" -- two times! I have posted about the significance of this song in the European country scene.
I was particularly fascinated by the tattoos sported by one of the group's friends. He wore his enthusiasm on his skin.
This is slightly off topic, but here's an article I wrote for Hadassah Magazine about the involvement of American Jews in bluegrass and Americana music, focusing on the current crop of musicians but also providing some background on what is a decades-long involvement.
Banjo picker Eric Lindberg loves with a passion the
distinctive harmonies of the acoustic country music known as bluegrass.
However, he says, as a Jew, he long felt “a bit out of the loop.
“Much of the work from the inception and early days of
bluegrass is deeply spiritual and Christian based,” says the
dark-haired, darkbearded 30-something Lindberg, who also plays guitar.
“Musically, I could connect with the songs on every level, but my
identity as a Jew from Brooklyn always kept me from truly identifying
with them.”
The solution? He and his wife, singer Doni Zasloff, formed a bluegrass band called Nefesh Mountain whose
original songs meld bluegrass and old-time licks with lyrics reflecting
Jewish traditions. “Nefesh is a Hebrew word which loosely translates as
the soul or animating spirit of all living things,” they explain on the
band’s website. “The mountain is a cross-cultural symbol used widely in
Jewish text as well as in bluegrass and old-time musical forms.”
Bluegrass and old-time are two different approaches to
traditional 20th-century American roots music, performed by ensembles
made up mainly of stringed instruments such as fiddle, banjo, mandolin
and guitar.
Nefesh Mountain’s 2016 debut album featured bluegrass
greats Sam Bush, Mark Schatz, Scott Vestal, Rob Ickes and Gary Oleyar,
and it included songs called “Singin’ Jewish Girl” and “Adonai Loves
Me.” Lindberg and Zasloff are among the current crop of musicians who
blend their deep-seated Jewish identities with an equally deep
connection to traditional roots music—a fusion that some performers and
critics dub “Jewgrass.”
[...]
New Orleans-based Mark Rubin, 51, a veteran of both the American roots and klezmer scenes, takes a different tack on his new album, Songs for the Hangman’s Daughter.
In songs such as “Southern Jews Is Good News” and “Teshuvah,” Rubin,
who was born in Stillwater, Okla., bluntly attempts to reconcile his
experience as a culturally Jewish musician in the American South.
“It is not religious music in the usual sense,” says music
critic Ari Davidow. Rubin “is in-your-face about who he is and how he
doesn’t fit stereotypes. He is not just making a statement to
anti-Semites who see Jews as aliens, but also to Jews of the coasts who
find it alien to imagine that there are Jews who live in redneck
territory, proudly embracing redneck values.”
The involvement of Jews with American roots music goes
back decades, to the folk and old-time music revival that kicked off in
the late 1950s and in which Jewish musician, musicologist and filmmaker
John Cohen was a key figure. (Today, one of the top bluegrass artists is
Jewish musician Noam Pikelny, recipient of the first annual Steve
Martin Prize for Excellence in Banjo and Bluegrass in 2010, though he
does not address his Jewish identity in his music.)
Mandolin and clarinet virtuoso Andy Statman and
award-winning scholar and performer Henry Sapoznik, now director of the
Mayrent Institute for Yiddish Culture at the University of Wisconsin,
were both pioneers of the klezmer revival movement. They had been
steeped in old-time and bluegrass before turning to Yiddish sources in
the 1970s.
I've just learned about and Iranian-born country artist -- Erfan "Elf" Rezayatbakhsh -- who a founded a country band -- The Dream Rovers -- a few years ago and has tried to bring country music to his home country.
He’s a singer and
songwriter from Tehran, and along with guitar player Ahmad Motevassel,
they are the Dream Rovers. This is not some weird-sounding Iranian techno music with a banjo
slid in there to certify it as “country.” The first album of the Dream
Rovers was a covers record that included old country music classics like
Tennessee Ernie Ford’s “Sixteen Tons,” and Merle Haggard’s “Hungry
Eyes.” The band first formed as the Persian Rovers in January of 2007,
and shorty after were forced to go on a hiatus after Elf was conscripted
into the Iranian military service. After a few personnel changes, the
band re-formed as the Dream Rovers—Iran’s first country music band.
Here's "Superstar," their first official video, released in 2011. The song was insired by Taylor Swift:
The Saving Country Music article tates:
Though most of Western music in Iran can only exist in forbidden,
underground channels, Elf and the Dream Rovers were able to present
their music publicly at the Sharif University of Technology (SUT) in
Tehran on multiple occasions, and for audiences of more than 500 people. “I was born and raised in a country that has absolutely zero background in country music,” Elf tells Saving Country Music.
“Yet I am very passionate about preserving the true country music,
which is the most important and authentic part of the American heritage
and culture and introduce it to the people of Iran through workshops,
concerts, and the release of albums and singles.”
Here's a video of the band performing at the university:
Elf went on to study country music in the East Tennessee State University’s bluegrass, old time, and country music
program in Johnson City, Tennessee and graduated Summa cum Laude in 2014. He now lives in Canada.
He and his music were brought to my attention by ETSU Prof. Lee Bidgood, who teaches in the old time and bluegrass program -- and who has been a friend, advisor and sounding board on issues of "the imaginary west" and country music outisde the US ever since we met more than a dozen years ago. Lee's book on Czech bluegrass is coming out this fall, and it is he who was the driving force behind the documentary on Czech Bluegrass, Banjo Romantika, in which I am an onscreen commentator.
The Saving Country Music article concludes -- echoing the words and attitudes of many European country artists:
Erfan “Elf” Rezayatbakhsh and the Dream Rovers may not be your next
favorite honky tonk band, but you may also be surprised by their
knowledge of country music and proficiency. Like many country music
artists and bands from non English-speaking countries, some of the
subtleties of the art form can get lost in the translation. But that
says nothing about the heart and dedication Elf has brought to the
music, recording country songs in both English and his native tongue,
and illustrating how even country music, which seems so characteristic
of a specific place, can defy borders, and perforate insular
environments and the inherent differences between the American and
Iranian mindset. “When there is music, nobody thinks of fighting,” says Elf.
“That’s why I came to the United States—not only to study country music
in its homeland, but also to travel to the country which had been
introduced to me by the media in Iran as ‘the enemy’ and ‘the great
Satan’ and see the people, talk to them, and learn about their culture
through them.”
I’m delighted and excited to have been asked to write the Foreword to “Reiten Wir!”
— an anthology of new short stories based on Karl May characters to be
published in October as part of events and initiatives this year marking May’s
175th birthday.
Gojko Mitic as Winnetou
Proceeds and royalties will go to support the Karl May Museum in Radebeul, Germany.
Karl May theme beer at the Karl May festival in Radebeul, some years back
My first exposure to the Imaginary Wild West in Europe (and Karl May) dates back to 1966, when my family spent the summer in Prague -- my father was leading an archaeological dig in the village of Bylany, near Kutna Hora, east of Prague.
In preparation for writing my Foreword, I dug out the diary I kept that summer -- and where I noted the Czech fascination with Winnetou and the Wild West.
"Cowboys 7 Indians are BIG. Esp. the W. German (I think) movies Winnetou and Old Shatterhand. In almost every store window you see color postcards &/or slides with scenes from the films being sold [;] I have seen Winnetou candy bars, books, a poster in a record store for the Winnetou music etc. W. is apparently the solemn-faced 'Indian' (typically clthed) who looks like either Sal Mineo or Paul Newman (or both). Shirts, brown with fake buckskin fringe & laced neck are advertised as ARIZONA, & next to them re TEXAS blue jeans....[...] More Winnetou junk: iron on patches, special blue jeans, new cards, packs of cards of the actor who plays Winnetou. Magazine cover..."
Karl May and Indian stuff, on display in Germany
Later in the summer, I watched Winnetou, the movie, on television.
"It was a pretty bad movie but interesting for a couple things. The cast was international. Herbert Lom was the baddie & Lex Barker Old Shatterhand. These two are US I think. Pierre Brice (French) was Winnetou. Then there were British & others. I think it was filmed in Yugoslavia. I don't know in what language -- it was dubbed in Czech. This was the first time [in a movie] I ever hear an Indian (Winnetou) who didn't have a deep voice. He was high & thin & nasal. Also, the Indians were goodies."
Our family went to a live performance of the operetta "Rose Marie" (of "Indian Love Call" fame), set in the Canadian west. It starred the pop singer Waldemar Matuska who, I wrote "is a big star here. His pictures are in the shop windows and magazines & record stores almost as much as Winnetou."
I decided that Matuska would be my favorite singer and bought a picture postcard of him (which I still have) to go with the ones I bought of the French actor, Pierre Brice, who played Winnetou in the movies.
Many years later, when I first started seriously researching the Imaginary Wild West and the European country music scene, I met Matuska, who was headlining of the first Czech country festivals I attended (in around 2004).
Matuska, who had moved to the United States in the 1980s, died in 2009.
Matuska was a towering figure in Czech popular music and culture and was
instrumental in popularizing American folk and country music to the
Czech audience. (Singing, as was required under communism, Czech lyrics
to American songs.) He also appeared in the seminal 1964 movie "Limonady
Joe" -- a wonderful send-up of the singing cowboy genre of movies and a
classic of Czech cinema.
Matuska was important to me in my
connection with Eastern Europe, and in my feel for the music and popular
culture of the Czech Republic in particular. He became my idol when, as
a kid, I spent the summer in Prague with my family in the 1960s. I
bought picture postcards of him -- he was lean, bearded and extremely
handsome. And I convinced my entire family to go hear him at a rather
weird performance of "Rosemarie" at a sort of indoor sports
arena...Matuska played the role of the mountie that was taken by Nelson
Eddy in the classic movie. I remember that it was a rather static
performance, as they all seemed to sing to the microphones that were
hanging prominently above the stage...
When I actually met
Matuska decades later, at the Strakonice Jamboree folk and bluegrass
festival in the Czech Republic in 2004, it was a remarkably emotional
experience. I had just begun following the European country scene, and
Strakonice was my first Czech festival. And there he was -- the idol of
my youth!
Matuska -- who had "defected" to the United States in
1986 but, after the fall of communism, returned frequently to CZ to tour
-- was the headline act. Heavier, even bloated-looking, with clearly
dyed hair, he didn't look much like the slim, handsome singer/actor of
the 1960s, but he had the audience in the palm of his hand.
I
went backstage and spent 20 minutes or so talking with him. I felt shy
and fluttery! What I remember are his hands -- very small and delicate,
with polished nails and an almost dainty ring.
For several years I've been exploring the imaginary wild west in contemporary Europe -- observing and experiencing the many ways that Europeans embrace the mythology of the American Frontier to enhance, imbue or create their own identities. (Or, indeed, just have fun.) On this blog I will post pictures, stories and links relating to this multi-faceted subculture, from European country music to rodeos, theme parks, round-ups and saloons....
I'm an American writer and photographer who has researched and written widely on Jewish culture and heritage issues for more than three decades. I've written several books on the topic and manage the website www.jewish-heritage-europe.eu, a project of the Rothschild Foundation (Hanadiv) Europe.
I also am working longterm on "Sturm, Twang and Sauerkraut Cowboys: Imaginary Wild Wests in Contemporary Europe," an exploration of the American West in the European imagination for which I won a 2006 Guggenheim Fellowship and an NEH summer stipend grant. In 2015 I was the Arnold Distinguished Visiting Chair in Jewish Studies at the College of Charleston, SC. My other honors and awards include Poland's “Knight's Cross of the Order of Merit" and the Michael Hammer Tribute Research Award from the Hadassah Brandeis Institute (HBI).